Turkey
…Visiting Ephesus
12th June - 17th June | 2023
The first thing after breakfast was get a local SIM card and some cash. I walked to a shop of Turkcell and got me a card, which was pretty expensive compared to what I have bought so far. I have to investigate that better in 30 days!!! For an ATM the staff of the shop wanted to send me far away from the centre, which didn't make sense. So I insisted on a bank, and then they said just around the corner on the main street… I might be blond, but not dumb! And on that stretch was a Vodafone shop and their offer was much cheaper!! Good to know for the next time!!
Today I was planning to do a bit of TET, so I pinpointed a location to get on the TET. For the last 3km I couldn't get off the national road as all new and under construction, so I took the next exit. At that entrance, it says that the road will have a dead end, but a lorry came from there… So I took my chance, over the bumpy road. After a while, it turned into fresh thick gravel, which I was not too keen on if I have to turn around. While I was still thinking, a lorry came and I flagged down the driver. With google translator and hands, I understood I can go… So let's go!
On the last 600m there was a roadblock in form of road work, the only way around was along loose dirt in an incline, so no way for me!! While I was hand gesturing with one of the workers, a car forked off about 100m behind us. So I shall give that a try as locals know their way around…The track was nice, but got bumpier and more into dirt. I was so much focussing that I only saw last moment the tractor coming from the side into my direction. That means I can get back on the national road. With gesturing the tractor made me space and I drove up that track, not the best, but I made it!!
After a stop for some fizzy water and waiting for a short shower to pass I went on to the TET. I was just on it for 1km when a car came flying towards me. I just got as far to the right as my legs and the rut on my side allow, and the car still not slowing down! At first, I thought it was a woman driving, but when passing me, it was a kid driving, dad in the passenger seat!!! Glad he didn't hit me as that would have been fun with insurance!!!
After that, I was even more cautious as you have to be aware of driving kids out here ;-) Unfortunately, after a while the track got bumpier as obviously during/after rain all sorts of vehicles have used it…so pick your line wisely! After about 5km battling with that track and my bike, I was sopping wet in my gear, so time to hit the road ;-)
I drove a nice road through the lovely countryside, which reminded me a bit of Germany mixed with Alentejo. And after a bend, I suddenly faced the Sea of Marmara - that was cool!! First second it gave you the impression you will drive and fall right into the sea! The road went then with switchbacks down to sea level - that was really scenic!! In Mürefye I found a nice camping spot with the help of google. Really nice between pine trees and next to the sea. The guy working there offered me to pitch up my tent on two mattresses, how cool is that? They also had a nice covered room, decorated like a living room, with nice old furniture. The place was also the home/base for the cat and her 3 cute kittens.
The next morning I wanted to get the ferry from Eceabat to Çanakkale. I was lucky upon arrival as the next one will leave in 45mins. The trip took only approx. 30mins. I again found on google and iOverlander a nice camping spot close to Assos. So now I have to make some kilometres today. It was nice weather, ca 25°C, and a nice landscape.
In the last village before camping, I bought some fruit. The road to the camping went through lovely countryside, which reminded me a bit of Andalucia. The road got worse and worse though, especially in the switchbacks downhill! And then down on Sealevel, right in nowhere, is built a huge urbanisation!
The way to the camping turned into a dirt track, occasionally in a bad shape with loose stones. It was a battle for me as my rear brake pads are coming to an end…and 28°C didn't help either! I think the 2km to the camping took me a good 30mins, standing in my own sweat!! I wonder how clients get here?!? The answer came when I turned into the entrance of the camping; I should have come a different road, which is made for the clients! Well, at least I had my workout for the day ;-)
But that place 'Neverland Camping' (www.neverlandcamping.com) was just WOW!! Right at the sea and all so lovely decorated!! Even though they didn't speak much English, they were all so helpful and caring.
I pitched up my tent at the front row and made the decision to stay 2 nights as the place is so ZEN! And then it was time for a well-deserved dip in the sea to cool down after today's offroad ;-).
In the evening I had the dish of the day, which was grilled veggies with a yoghurt sauce, delicious!! The owner and his business partner are also bikers, so even better!
After a good night's sleep, listening to the waves close by, I had a fantastic delicious breakfast. During the day I was catching up on blogs and social media and whatever was still to do - and chillaxing:-D
In the afternoon it was time for another dip in the sea to cool down. In the meantime, there arrived 2 couples to stay as well.
The next morning I tried to pack away my tent as quietly as possible, which is nearly impossible… Breakfast today was unfortunately not as good as yesterday; guess too many clients now! That felt a bit disappointing, but I am glad, I saw what they can do if you are the only client! I still would recommend the place, but off-season!
Oh, and I was not the only foreigner here over the years!! Panny and Simon from www.kradvagabunden.de were here 6 years ago:-D.
Today ideally I should get until Ephesus, or at least South of Izmir. It was another hot and sticky day!! And all day national road. I expected it to be boring, but with all the places along, time flew by. I had to stop every 90mins or so to cool down, drink something different than warm water and wet my clothes; too cold for a cooling vest though!
Izmir traffic was insane for my Western standard, but very civilised! Entering the outskirts was sort of stop&go, meaning anything between 0-70kmh, and stay with the flow! Through Izmir itself, 3 lanes and anything between 70-90kmh, going with the flow!! That felt so insane!! Imagine that at home in one of the bigger cities!! And it worked!! Exiting was again that stop&go.
Once I passed the worse I stopped at a petrol station for fuel and checked hotels in Selçuk. Found one and booked it! And 30mins later I was there, well, nearly, as google gives you an address 500m away. Again nobody spoke English…so I made my way along that road until I saw a younger woman who spoke English. Even better, she hopped on her motorcycle (how cool is that?) and drove me to the hotel; it is her brother :-D Lucky me! After checking in it didn't take me long and I hit the pillow! It was a long day for me in that heat - and summer hasn't even arrived yet!
Early in the morning, there was a heavy thunderstorm, but by the time I had breakfast, it was already all dry. First I visited the remains of Artemis Temple and then to Ephesus Archaeological Site. Even though I tried to arrive late, 11am was still too early. It is a very impressive site, as well preserved and/or restored. You can imagine life back in the days. In my opinion, skip a lot of the sites in Greece, but visit Ephesus, IF you are as much interested in history as me ;-) The only problem was the heat and the humidity!! In the 2hrs walk I drank a whole big bottle of water! The last bit I used then to wet my clothes for the ride up Norths.
Now I am on my way to Istanbul, where I will meet James in a couple of days:-D. He is already on the ferry from Barcelona to Civitavecchia.
I made it until Manisa, in a sticky 34°C - not good for my head as rain in the atmosphere!! In Manisa, I found via google a nice hotel called Hotel Giritligil; was a bit out of my normal budget, but I couldn't be asked to ride any further. My headache got worse, so I called it a day. Tomorrow it has to be camping though, to make up for today's spending ;-)
During night time a heavy thunderstorm started with heavy rain. When checking the weather forecast it will be like that for the next 2 days!! So no camping for tonight!! I went late to breakfast as still pouring down and I would have to pack my bike outside as there was no shelter - so played a bit on time to see if I will find a gap in the rain. By 11am it stopped, so quickly got my bike, packed it and checked out before the next shower came. And it started literally as soon as I drove off!!
It didn't stop at all during the day. The Rukka gear (www.luhta.com) kept me dry all day!! Wish it also would be optimal on hot days ;-)
As arrived early in Bandirma, I went to the port, well to the gate. The unfriendly staff send me off to Erdek, where a ferry to Tekirdag would leave at 17h00, in less than 60mins. In the rain, I had to ride that road extra carefully as so many curves and ruts from the lorries. Arriving in the rain, it was time to get to the ferry and a ticket. The card machine didn't accept my MasterCard, so I had to get my cash in my luggage!! Remember, raining and time to get on that last ferry of the day.
Once I got my ticket, I went on the ferry. Finally, it stopped raining! However, I still have no hotel as I figured out that the majority of local hotels are not registered with booking.com, but you can check their prices and availability on google. So I picked a hotel in Tekirdag and hope for the best as arriving late! Well, until I found out that the ferry will take 5 hours until arriving! It was a nice German-Iranian couple that told me that and she said, she always books her hotels via trivago.com - so you can guess how I found a bed for the night ;-)
At 22h00 we arrived at the port of Tekirdag and I went straight to the hotel; not the best, but it will do it for the night! After speaking to James and Pavel, as he is in Durres, Albania, I went straight to bed.
The next I will be in Istanbul and finally be reunited with James - so stay tuned for the next blog! In the meantime have a Çai.
Places | Cities:
Kirklareli, Mürefte, Çanakkale, Assos, Izmir, Ephesu (Selçuk), Manisa, Tekirdag.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 8985 km
Information Border Crossings (in May 2023):
IMPORTANT:
./.
Maintenance | Breakdown:
Still ongoing ABS issue of on/off - will be checked while servicing the bike in Istanbul.
Health issues:
./.
Special thanks to:
Ata and his family of Neverland Camping (www.neverlandcamping.com) - you got a hidden gem!
Ephesus archaeological site to be really interesting.