SICK
Do we have Covid?
17th August - 23rd August | 2023
The next morning we spotted a track going over the mountains to Hemsin and then back to the boring coastal road. First, it was still an asphalt road, but later on, it turned into a well-used dirt track up into the mountains. And to our surprise, we found ourselves in an area with tea plantations. That was a total surprise as I was not expecting tea to be planted here - in my little world that was only in India (Asia) and Africa. Well, lesson learned! We even talked to a young man who gave us a quick explanation about it all, as their family business in the 3rd generation.
Shortly after we were back to the boring coastal road towards Trabzon, where James would try to get a new battery for his Yamaha. We had two occasions recently in the morning, especially in wet conditions, when the Yamaha wouldn't start. Once, in Batumi, we were lucky as another camper had a Jumperset in his car that we could use, and the other time, actually this morning, we jump-started it from Schimmelchen. Of course, he was not very keen on the idea as we are nearly back in Athens, Greece, before the bike will be stored for about 9 months until the next leg of the travels.
In Trabzon poor James got sent around in circles from one bike shop without success. We tried another bike shop and that owner was super helpful and went to all the shops with James, but again without success. The problem was the special size (measurement) of the battery. In the meantime, I was online with someone in a conversation and he finally found one online for us. So we convinced the shop owner to order it for us to have a shipping address. We thought it would be only a couple of days until the battery would arrive …how wrong we were!
This time it was very difficult to find on any app a decent accommodation that was not totally overpriced, had a parking space and a good rating on the app - mission impossible! We finally went to the two camping places about 30mins drive, on the way to the Sülema Monastery. By the time we left Trabzon, it was already dark, which made driving for me very difficult as my BMW is not really famous for its lights!
When we arrived finally at the first-choice camping it was, as it was Friday, overcrowded and fully booked. However, the owner was so nice to find out about the other camping place about free spaces and we were lucky. So we went to our 2nd choice of camping. It was a nice family business, and the son spoke very good English! Unfortunately, the toilets were not in the best condition as there was only one squatting toilet and shower for everybody - it is the summer holiday season and weekend! YUCK!
The night we slept pretty well, but James already started yesterday to feel unwell, coming down with a cold. I started during the morning, following his symptoms by 24hrs. We used the morning to go 2up on Schimmelchen looking around at the local hotels to have a place for tomorrow. Also, we were looking in town for a pharmacy. Not easy as all around the world seems a pharmacy has a blinking cross and written pharmacy (or in their language, but similar looking). In Turkey it is red and called Eczane - you only need to know ;-)
We found a hotel room close by. As they wanted prepayment, I took the risk that the room would be still available tomorrow! Knowing I will have a room with 'my' bathroom by tomorrow made it bearable to use that one squatting toilet one more night! However, the owner's family were really sweet and caring about us, especially once they knew we were feeling unwell.
The next day, we checked out, also were we honest with them that it was mainly due to their sanitary facilities. They told us a story, about why, but looking back on an old comment in iOverlander, it was the same facilities then and there. I hope they take it seriously to do something about it as otherwise a great camping spot and a very nice & caring family!
We moved into the hotel, and of course, the room was still available! I just crashed on the bed and hardly got off it for the next 3 days. I think the last (bad) flu I had was good 12 years ago!! As all was so much aching, Brufen 600 became my best friend for the next few days!
Once recovered, and still no news on the battery(!!), we decided we needed to make a move. We decided to loop to the Dark Canyon at Kemaliye. As our hotel is just on the doorstep of Sümela Monastery, we drove there first. What a disappointment. On social media, you see this stunning facade in the rocks, but real life is different!!
You have to park at the main gate and take a bus up there (of course paying for it!), getting only at one point a glimpse of the facade of the Monastery. Once up there, you have to walk about 600m. Bear in mind, that I am still recovering from the severe flu; I thought I would not make it!! I had to stop every 150m to recover, seriously I felt like my grandmother! Once I made it to the main entrance, again you cannot even get a glimpse of it!! Well, once up there, I paid the entrance fee of TL400 to even get more disappointed! It looks like they invested all the money into building nice platforms for people to roam around, but nothing in preserving or reconstructing of the old monastery/church!! So many people scratched their names into the old walls with the old paintings! A shame!
Once I was back to James and the motorbike we headed off to the direction of Erzincan. We went along a national road that went through so many tunnels, one was even 15 km long! In one little town, we were looking for some lunch, which was again not an easy task! Just on the way out, we found a place! And it turned out that they are just opening and we are their first customers! As the food and service were good we wished them success in the future!
In Erzincan, we did some shopping and on the way out, James found a shop selling beer. The owner recommended that we visit the Gürlevik waterfall. We decided we would look around there for our camping spot for the night. We were lucky to find a nice spot at the end of the village. Locals were still having their evening stroll and waved friendly to us whilst we put up our tent for the night.
When we were nearly sleeping, well James was actually already in his first deep sleep, I suddenly heard a noise from an animal. I nudged James, but of course, he hadn't heard it. While he was nearly sleeping again, there was that noise again. I was so convinced it was a wild bear!! My heart was racing, whilst my ears were waiting for the next noise. Finally, we discovered it was a wild boar roaming around for food - pffeeww!! What a relief!!
Due to the flu and the boring landscape, there are not many pictures I am afraid! However, have a refreshing beer, and with the next blog we will visit the famous Dark Canyon, so stay tuned!
Places | Cities:
Trabzone, Sülema Monestary, Erzincan.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 17865 km
Information Border Crossings (in July 2023):
./.
Maintenance | Breakdown:
./.
Health issues:
Flu (Covid?)
Special thanks to:
Nobody, for a change ;-)