GEORGIA BACK INTO TURKEY
More Stunning Mountains
10th August - 16th August | 2023
The next morning, feeling a bit better, we headed up Svaneti National Park, towards Ushguli, where we were thinking of staying a couple of nights. The road up there is nearly all under construction, for improvement, and probably more tourists. However, it was such a scenic panorama, with the mountains and glaciers. In Ushguli we had something to eat, but as the place was so busy, due to the road work, we headed on to Mestia. It was such a lovely ride over the mountains. In Mestia we went to the first Guesthouse I had marked on Google. As we liked it, we booked us in for 2 nights. They even will do the laundry for us!
The next day we took it easy as a bit of a chill day. In the morning, we visited the nearby Historic museum as you can climb up their tower. These towers are famous for the Svaneti area. After that, it was time for a nice cafe in the village. Our Guesthouse was really well located; in 300m you are in the centre, but it is in a very quiet location.
In the afternoon James used my hair-cutting machine, but halfway it broke. I couldn't stop laughing!! It was so hilarious!! I went to the centre as I remembered an electrical supply shop, but they didn't have a clipper on sale. Luckily there was a hairdresser next door. I asked her and as she was free, I raced to the hotel to get James. Whilst he got ready, the lady cut my side hair. We both giggled when James arrived. Within 5 minutes he had a proper cut, including eyebrows and ears ;-)
Unfortunately, the Guesthouse was fully booked the next night, so we had to leave in the morning. I didn't really want to leave the mountains, as even up here it was hot, but at least not humid!!
Late that afternoon we reached the town of Tskaltubo, which used to have its fame as a Spa town during Soviet times. It must have been a very posh place back in the day, judging by the ruins!! If they could talk… You could easily spend a day discovering them all, but as it was getting late, we had to move on to still find a camping spot. We found one through iOverlander. Just in time! Once we got our tent up, the thunderstorm and rain started!!
The next morning we met the TET linesman of Georgia, David with his wife and son. We met in Kutaisi in a nice cafe shop that serves breakfast. What a lovely place Kutaisi is. Pity we didn't know as we otherwise would have spent a night here. Due to David, there are a lot of music events in the streets at night. Whilst we got to the end of our breakfast, we saw police outside talking to the staff. It turned out, we were not allowed to park our bikes in front of the cafe shop. On arrival when we parked there were plenty of cars parked and the signs were not really clear! However, David explained the situation and we got away without a fine - phew!
When we said goodbye, David told us, that before leaving Georgia we have to go up to Gomismta as it a stunning a view.
With not much time left, we headed towards Batumi, where we finally found a camping spot along the coast. It looked nice at first moment as it even served food, but the toilets were a disgrace - even James didn't use them! I think that says it all!! However, none of the “official” camping places along the Batumi coast got really good reviews and it would soon get night. So, it is, what it is! At least there were plenty of fields and bushes around for your necessaries!
The next day, as we were in a very humid area, we couldn't dry the tent at all and we only wanted to leave the place - as fast as possible. We decided to find a nice cafe in Batumi. Batumi seems to be a very nice and beautiful town with a lot of new buildings - at least what we could see driving through! We finally found a nice cafe shop - a posh one, but we appreciated the pampering after that horrible camping spot last night!
After breakfast, we headed towards Gomismta, which took us along a river and then on very small twisty roads into the mountains. After a while, we had to fork off onto the offroad track (due to GPS still a peach-coloured road!), which had some Steffi-difficulties but were manageable. I think that was the most challenging off-road uphill in Georgia from all the roads into the mountains!
When we had a stop at a fountain to top up our water sources and for refreshment, a local bus filled with people came down the hill! Seriously!!! A bus route running here?!? - we later found out, indeed, twice a day!
Once we were up on the top and out of the trees, it was just wow! We enjoyed the view and as it was a nice area we decided to camp there. Also were there little shelter huts, unlocked and it looked like they were for free. James walked over to the only house, where we saw an old man sitting, to confirm we could sleep there for free. Yes, so the decision is done - we sleep in one of the huts tonight. However, we had to get our tent out to dry it as it was still wet from last night.
What a view from the place! We also visited the old man in the house, to buy a Coke as he seemed to sell drinks; to our surprise at normal supermarket prices! He invited us then to come in and have vodka with him! Here we go!!! No food since breakfast and now vodka! The conversation was a bit difficult, as we could use google translator but except for yes and no and numbers, it was difficult to understand the answers. However, what we found out was very interesting!
Early in the morning, it got already busy around our hut with the first jeeps coming up for the view. One driver invited us to have some fresh homemade bread, chicken and, of course, vodka - good morning!
Once all packed up on the bikes, we passed by the man's house to say goodbye, well that we would pass by later on our way down after visiting Gomismta.
The track to Gomistma was better as it was mainly flat. We thought it would be only a small village as David told us, we wouldn't get any food there. We still don’t know about that though, but it was a pretty big village. In case it still had not got any supermarkets, I guess, as soon as the other road was finished supplies could be delivered much easier. We couldn't take that road yet, as it was closed due to road work, so we had to take the same track back down!
After we enjoyed the famous view over the clouds, we started our way back. Of course, we said goodbye to the man before we started to get down into Batumi. Once down into the valley we stopped to get a cold drink and looked for a place with a washing machine to stay for the night as it was again a bit of time to get some laundry done, after driving in this hot and humid condition!
The next morning we went to the border and the time difference between Georgia and Turkey was basically our border crossing time ;-)
We followed the boring coastal road, where not even the landscape looked appealing to both sides. We got the area around Çamlihemsin highly recommended, so we followed the road inland along a river. Further on we even peered our eyes open to find a nice camping spot for the night - with success! At a flat area within the trees, used as a picnic area, someone just left and we took over :-D Right in time as just another big family came flocking in. So we were extremely lucky with our spot for the night.
I hope you enjoyed as much the time in Georgia as we did! This country is just an outdoor heaven :-D. Whilst you wait for another blog (yeah, I know, you are desperate, but this year it is a different way of travelling with high temperatures ...), have an ice-cold vodka.
Places | Cities:
Ushguli, Mestia, Tskaltubo, Kutaisi, Batumi, Gomismta.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 17355 km
Information Border Crossings (in July 2023):
Georgian border side:
Passport and bike documents
Turkish border side:
Passport, driving licence and bike documents
All very easy, fast and smooth.
Maintenance | Breakdown:
./.
Health issues:
Steffi migraine with the hot, humid weather.
Special thanks to:
David for recommending Gomismta.
All the cows - I will miss you on the streets!