Trans Pyrenees
From the Atlântic to the Mediterranean Sea
September | 2021
Today we started the Trans-Pyrenees, no rest day as originally planned as we have to go another 1100 km to the other side. Approximate 20 km after Irún it forked off to the offroad. And hell, what a difficult one as it rained overnight and it was a rocky track with lots of slippy stones (no sunshine over decades didn't help it). It was first a normal track, but shortly it went into a single track, getting more and more stoney. At one turn James XT slipped nearly off the rocks down the hill! How would you explain that your insurance?! No question that he had to take Schimmelchen through that section. Even me pushing him first with the XT over that slimy piece of rock was a workout. Then it was time to get Schimmelchen over that slippy section. Finally, we got both bikes through! There was another occasion further along where he had to take Schimmelchen over a nasty v-shaped rock-step - the poor bash plate, but did its job very well!
After we have battled our way of this single track we had a fairly muddy section with some puddles. Of course, Steffi dropped Schimmelchen nearly in the last one, as last second decision to change the line, well from one rutt into another! Not a good idea in mud! After we had the bike up again the horn didn't stop yenking! Oh no, not good! So James had to get his tools out (of course, down at bottom of panniers as heaviest item) to unbolt the horn! To do so, we both were kneeing in the mud, so we were now hip downwards camouflaged ;-)
The rest of the day were some nice mountain tracks, sometimes with asphalt, sometimes dirt, stones and gravel. The scenery was really surreal as some clouds in the mountains surrounded us, but no rain! And what a change to the Algarve: all green! Suddenly we found ourselves in France, as we did some green border crossing and we both must have missed the moment on our GPS when doing so. We had at a supermarket a snack and did some stocking-up shopping for the next days camping ahead.
Fully loaded we shortly came back into Spain, where we later looked out for a camping spot. We finally found a leisure place along the road, which was perfect for our purpose. Steffi even managed to squeeze her Schimmelchen through the gate; the XT was too fat so it had to stay outside the fenced area ;-)
Next morning, after all packed, we had breakfast in a village close to Bardenas Reales. It was really nice to ride that famous area this morning. Unfortunately, the track we had to fork off was closed so we had to go back to where we started the loop.
We stopped at a food truck, as we both were really thirsty and hungry - and we needed to find an alternative track. As we got off the bikes, the XT fell over. Steffi thought James forgot his side stand (as he ever would), but it was the side stand that broke in half!!! Oh no!!! And now?! But James had directly a solution - his self designed side stand, out of an old crutch. He created that to oil the chain on our bikes, well the ones that have no centre stand. Well, not the ideal side stand, as not easy to place it each time under the bike, but it would do the trick in a case of emergency and of course two pairs of hands to do so! That means now, thinking well where to stop and park the XT - and conclusively Steffi better not dropping the bike!
We had a really nice snack at that food truck and looked for an alternative to our route. The owner of the food truck told us, that the original track was washed away with last weeks rain! Ah well, that explains the closure. However, that provided us in the end with a detour of 80 kms to get back onto our track! Back on the original track it was fast offroad tracks along a canal. Later on we hit lots of rocky farm tracks in the forests, until we got to one that was closed. The alternative didn't look very promising as really rutty in dry mud.
We had a brand new Chrysler Jeep behind us and the guy said it should be ok, but he doesn't know as he has never been here before. Ah, ok, very good to know; well, at least there are helping hands if needed! So we wiggled our way around these ruts onto really bumpy forest tracks. It went on for kilometres and you really had to keep constantly your momentum up! Step by step, rock over rock, rutt over step over rock we carried on for kilometres, completely focused on the next move! Here where the intercoms are really helpful as James could warn Steffi early enough when to change the side due to the ruts!
After we finally made it, back on to a road we started to look out for a camping spot. Again it looked like we will not be lucky tonight as it was already late and being in urban areas. When we forked off to offroad again, there was a couple wild camping and another kilometre along we finally found our spot for the night. We were really lucky! We cheered with the cold beers we bought earlier in one of the villages to Steffis real momentum skills on that tricky bumpy offroad stretch. Dinner and early night as very tired after that workout today - well as far as we could fall asleep with a party (disco?) somewhere close by ...
The morning started well with some nice mountain back roads, and we got again a sunny day! Later on the offroad started, and how it started!! All uphill these little golfball-sized stones, all loose, washed away to one side. Steffi’s fear of "where it goes up, it has to come down" came later! It took her not even 100m downhill in these stones and Schimmelchen was on its side! Baring in mind the XT still has no side stand, James helping hands took this time a bit longer to arrive. So he took then Schimmelchen further down, and Steffi stumbled, nearly skidding downhill herself. This sort of track went on for kilometres now! As Steffi dropped her bike another 2 times in these loose stones it didn't work really for her confidence! Later on that day, still mainly tackling sections, Steffi was getting really tired. So after James had to rescue Schimmelchen (not lying, still standing!) once again, we called it a day and crashed on the next plain grass field. Exhaustion of the last two days tricky offroad on the fully loaded BMW F700 GS and no rest day kicked in! After a little rest, we walked the track to see how it has to be tackled; thankfully it will be only another 1.5km tomorrow morning!
This morning we got up early as the weather forecast gave rain for the morning and we wanted at least have packed up before the rain started. As we checked last night the track was easy this time (OK, a good night rest helped also the mind). So that was a good start, but then it got rocky and rutty uphill again - and that without breakfast! And as we know, where it goes up, it also comes down! So again another complicated, rutty and stony downhill. And guess what, Schimmelchen was down another 2 times, so poor James had to find a place where to "park" the good old XT and then coming to help getting up the BMW GS. As one hill Steffi already knew, she will not make it without dropping the bike, James had to come and get the bike down the complicated part ... well, after he found a "parking" spot for his bike. Finally, around lunchtime, we reached a village! Foooood, and resting!
After filling up our empty stomachs, the route took us over a lovely mountain pass (nearly 2000m high), which paid off for the morning workout, back onto some back roads.
Later on, we had some offroad again, where Steffi got her bike stuck in a deep rut, filled up with bricks (took the wrong side of the farmer’s track). Really tricky to get it out with gassing it to get traction. In the meantime came two other GS-drivers from the other side and spoke to James, well told him what Steffi has to do! Very gentleman, instead of talking to him and giving HIM advice on how she should get her bike out - maybe a helping hand would have been a possibility! As soon as Steffi got her bike wheeled out, she just ignored these guys and went on - being a real gentlewoman ;-)
Late afternoon we stopped in the village Villaler for a really well-deserved beer and planned our sleeping possibilities. As James just found a place to park his bike, he realised that opposite is a welder! How big are these chances!! So we went there to speak to the guys and yes, they still can fix the side stand today! Hurray!!! That makes life easier, when Schimmelchen is having a rest! 2 beers later the side stand was fixed - cheers to the welder! Same time we booked a hotel in Vielha as the weather forecast was not too good for the night.
In front of the hotel were already some bikes parked, of course, nice and clean ones. So we mixed it a bit up with our dirty and filthy ones ;-) Wonder what they talk tonight - hihihi!
We, ourselves, got showered and changed to go into town to get our laundry and dinner sorted. On the way out, Steffi remembered that the hotel has a storage room for ski equipment; ideal place to dry our tent that was really wet from this morning dew.
On the way into town to the laundry it started to drizzle - so we took the right decision with the hotel for tonight!
This morning we had to drive a bit backroads until the first bit of offroad started. A really nice offroad track took us to Tor on to the old smuggler pass. There we had a picnic, but towards the end it started to drizzle. The track up to the border between Spain and Andorra was pretty technical but doable after all the really technical tracks we did the last days!
Up at the border we bumped into a group of Portuguese Jeep drivers. You can imagine their faces when Steffi approached them greeting in Portuguese. After a short chat we carried on towards Andorra de la Vella. As the weather got cloudier and on/off drizzle we stopped for a (bad) cafe. Also to check the weather forecast to make a plan for the afternoon/sleeping situation. That was NOT a good idea using the internet in Andorra! We both got messages about charges, but that was already too late! 2 weeks later came the bill: extra 50 (!) EUR it was! So note for the future: switch off data in Andorra!!!
As we came down to the town, it started to rain heavier. Whilst getting through Andorra de la Vella during rush hour, it got even worse, so Steffi suggested to stop under the next possible roof. 500m further on we found a petrol station! We both looked like drowned cats!! So Steffi went in to get some hot chocolate and cafe to get something warm. No idea why, but she looked for the prices of Jameson whisky and realised it was really cheap here - 1 ltr for 14 EUR!!! Well, guess what was bought before even the hot drinks were bought ...?!? Whilst James tried to pack it away, Steffi came back with the hot drinks ... and the Jameson was already packed away. The idea was actually, to give the hot drink a shot to booster the immune system! Well, then it has to be only the hot drink :-(
As we couldn't use our internet anymore, but the rain got a wee bit lighter, we carried on to get back into Spain into the next town to find a place for the night. Unfortunately, there were only two options for this village, so we opted for the one with the parking at the hotel. What a choice! This hotel had no real modification since it has been constructed! Wow, stuck totally in the 70s or 80s - retro by nature! It felt really weird this place with the old furniture and tiles! However, it was spotlessly clean! We got a little covered terrace where we could hang our cloth to dry (well, as far as they can dry in humid air). Surprisingly the "menu del dia" was really good food for good value. Steffi has overdone it a bit with the red wine, so she had the giggles. The giggles got worse after realising in our bathroom that the toilet paper is not reachable sitting on the loo!! Unless you have a reach of at least 1.5 m! Wonder who has constructed that by the time!
During dinner we watched the television, not avoidable as nowadays you have them everywhere in bars, restaurants, cafe shops, etc, and we were really lucky with today’s weather - Nimes, Bordeaux, etc suffered from bad floods!
The next morning we had blue sky, unbelievable after yesterdays weather. And the good news is: we can go up to Pic Negre!
After breakfast, we got into our semi-dry clothes and packed the bikes. To get up to Pic Negre we had to go via Andorra again. We winded our way up towards Pic Negre, first a twisty road uphill and then it changed into offload - of course, Steffi dropped her immediately bike - just to check out, if the side stand of the XT is really working if needed. When it started to get more complicated due to washouts and rocks, Steffi decided to leave her rollbag behind as we will come back the same way. So she took it about 100m off the track behind a bush, still visible to everybody as a bright yellow bag - positive thinking! James took both bikes up in parts and Steffi walked fully geared with a tank bag in one hand and helmet in the other up the hill. The mission was to get a picture of us on the bikes next to the old VW van. And if that means Steffi has to walk up there, then it is walking. OK halfway, Steffi suggested to leave even Schimmelchen behind and just take a picture of us two and the XT. Here was James also very determined to get both bikes up! After a while, Steffi had the feeling that it would be doable again for her, so finally up on the bike again, up the mountain.
Nearly up the top, we thought the rusty camper van was visible, but nothing to see around the plane mountain hill. So James drove up and down and around the area trying to find it. We tried to find it on google maps, but no indication. Whilst James drove around, talking to hikers, Steffi already made a plan on the downhill and seemed to found an alternative to the stoney part. Also there passed some mountain e-bikers and she asked them about the VW van and they gave her directions. Unfortunately the intercom didn't work over that distance and also the phone had a really bad reception. When James came down, as he also knew by then where it was, we went on to get there. This meant that James had to take Schimmelchen the last bit of steep uphill to the sign "Pic Negre". Here it was really windy, but a fantastic panoramic view. From there we had to drive another 3km to get to the van - no wonder we couldn't see it! We opted for the more rutted down, so James had to take again the bike for some metres.
Finally we were at the famous rusty VW van! Yes, we made it!!! What an achievement! We were really proud of ourselves! After taking the pictures we had our picnic. Whilst we had our lunch, came a group of 4 bikers. Steffi spoke to them as they were Spanish and one guy knew the story behind it. Do you know the story?
After they left, a german guy in a Unimog type vehicle came and we chatted to him as he has at home also a BMW GS, but recently started to enjoy travelling with his Unimog-type caravan.
As it was getting colder and more windy, it was time to get down from Pic Negre - as weather in the high mountains can change pretty fast! So back to the Pic Negre sign, this time on an easier track, James getting Schimmelchen this part of downhill, then Steffi riding it down on the discovered easy alternative track - and believe it or not, she did nearly all on her own! Just the last 500m to the bush with the bright yellow rollbag James had to take it! Wow, Steffi so proud of her taking all that downhill the bike herself - and then happy that the bag was still there. As earlier said, positive thinking!
We drove then all the way back to Andorra de la Vella. As petrol is so cheap here, we filled up the bikes - and Steffi couldn't resist to buy another 1 ltr bottle of Jameson for 13 EUR! That will keep her going for the next 10 years ;-) Back in Spain (as we had made a Plan A and B last night, depending on weather), we went now on the N260 to Ripoll where we had booked a hostel for the night (again rain forecasted). This was a really lovely hostal, with its own Pizzaria in-house. Easy decision for dinner then! As being in a town, the parking was not so easy, but the owner pulled some tables and chairs on the terrace aside, so we could park the bikes there for the night; how nice is this!
All night it was raining, so definitely the right decision (again). When packing the bikes the rain got a bit lighter, and as soon as we were en-route it stopped raining. We drove lovely backroads via Beget until the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, to Cadaqués, where James tipped his toe in the sea. There the weather was sunny and people were even sitting on the beach. Unfortunately we were not allowed to go to the most eastern point of Spain, to Cabo de Creus; security wouldn't let us pass :-(
From here onwards it was saying Goodbye to the Trans-Pyrenees and time to go back towards home. We still used some backroads in the hope for one more (last) night of camping, but no chance to find a spot. So it was again staying in a hostel, which was practical for our purposes. Our dinner was a potpourri of crisps, nuts and red wine to finish our stashes of food.
Next morning Steffi’s GPS and google were not really cooperative as both send us all over the place, first to find a petrol station to check the air pressure on Schimmelchen, as it has a slow puncture and then the right way back home via Madrid. After an hour driving around we finally got on the right motorway passing close by Barcelona, along the A2. It was a lovely ride as the motorway is a bit curvy towards Madrid and some nice scenery. However, the maximum speed was only 90 kmh due to the oil usage of the XT, which made it a bit boring for Steffi on her Schimmelchen, but due to the intercoms we kept us pretty much entertained and Steffi had quite often the giggles! At some point the oil usage was so high on the XT that we were discussing to call road assistance to get it trailered back home, but in the end, we carried on and James topped it up as many times as Steffi needed to top up fuel.
In Guadalaja we pampered us with a "better" hotel for the night, and luckily it was right next to the motorway.
Next morning Steffi was soo tired that we had to make a cafe stop nearly every 60 mins! At lunchtime it was getting worse that we had to get off at Mirahonda for a proper stop. We bought some bread and coke and then we looked around for a place to crash. There was this sort of Avenida with lovely green grass and shade under the palm trees - ideal spot for a siesta! Guess the people driving along were a bit wondering what we were up to have our picnic break there. After that we both felt refreshed and only stopped for petrol and a cafe. The last petrol stop was before the Portuguese border, as in Spain the petrol is good 25 cents cheaper! We both were at our houses and mum about 22h30 (Portuguese time) - dirty, filthy but happy!
Places | Cities:
Irún, Etxalar, Ordoki, Uhart-Cize, Lumbier, Aibar, Sangüesa national park, Carcastillo, Arguedas, national park Bardenas Reales, Valareñas, Sádaba, Biota, Luna, Murilla de Gallego, Loarre, Arguis, Las Bellostas, Colungo, Embalse El Grade, Salinas, Casetejon de Sos, Embalse de Baserca, Villaler, Vielha, Baqueira, Esterri d'Aneu, Alins, Tor, Andorra la Vella, La Seu d'Urgell, Pic Negre, Ripoll, Beget, Castellfollit de la Roca, Figueres, Cadaqués, Cabo de Creus, Verges, Caldes de Malavella, Guadalajara, Algarve
Driven km | Trip:
day 1 - 200 km
day 2 - 280 km
day 3 - 190 km
day 4 - 230 km
day 5 - 150 km
day 6 - 180 km
day 7 - 250 km
day 8 - 640 km
day 9 - 800 km
Maintenance | Breakdown:
ongoing oil leak XT as still not fixed
XT: broken sidestand -> welded 3 days later
Schimmelchen: horn desinstalled as didn't stop yenking
Schimmelchen: additional far lights packed in due to age
Schimmelchen: slow puncture on the last days
Health issues:
None :-)
Special thanks to:
To the weather God as still providing us with mainly good weather
The app OsmAnd to help us finding alternative routes
The welder in Villaler for fixing the side stand of the XT