TET Andalucia | Spain
Olé, Olé!
May | 2021
I cannot believe it! With 1 year delay we are finally going to Spain; it was Stefanie's Christmas present over a year ago!
Friday night we loaded the bikes and all our equipment so that we could head over to Spain early Saturday morning. 650km and about 8 hrs later we arrived a bit sweaty (yeah, old cars have only windows as air condition) at Casa Azul close to Pozo Alcón. We quickly unloaded the bikes and our gear so that we could head down to the village for a cold "tinto de verano" and some basic shopping. Back to the house we prepared our bikes so that we can hit the TransEuroTrail (TET) early morning.
Early start next morning, of course, not leaving without having the typical Spanish breakfast (toasted bread roll with olive oil and grated tomato, café cortado and fresh orange juice, YUMMIE). And then we are finally on the TET. It started straight away with heading into a stunning canyon.
The important information they didn't pass on to us, 15km after Gor the track was blocked by a massive gate with locker. You could see enduro bike tracks going around, but we didn't know the area or had any clue if there might be another gate, or, or. Stefanie walked the track until the next bend, but nothing to see, so we opted to go back to Gor and trying to find an alternative to get to the next village, Abla.
The Montana GPS said it is only 20km from Gor. How little did we know by then. It was in the end a detour of 90km (20km as the crow flys!) - thank you Garmin Montana 680. However, it was a fantastic alternative track over mountains, through valleys, up to 2000m where a freezing cold wind was blowing. As Stefanie was still in her vest over the armour we had to stop then to put the sleeves back into the vest and putting on some more thin layers - YES, it was freezing!
The next issue was that Amarelinha only has a petrol range of 160-180km and the detour was not in our calculation! Due to google maps it should be from that point onwards only tarmac and soon downhill to Abla. So, lets hope with letting it roll the steep parts Amarelinha will make it to the next petrol station - and yes, we made it! That deserves an ice cold beer (as down in the valley it was hot again). After the fluid levels of all of us were topped up we started to make a plan for the remaining hours of daylight: getting some cold beer, a bottle of wine, some water and bread rolls for dinner later; driving another 1-2 hours until we will find a nice camping spot.
So, off to the river beds (they are used around here as streets to get from A to B for all sorts of vehicles) towards the Parque Natural de Sierra Nevada. We followed the TET up to the 2000m point on the A-337, where Stefanie suddenly said "I have been here before, with Schimmelchen"; and indeed, it turns out she was here about 1.5 years earlier.
There we first searched around for a nice camping spot, but it was not very appealing, so we carried on for another hour and when we were about 20km off road again, we found a lovely camping spot on about 1600m, after 220km driving today.
It was not easy to find a flat spot in the mountains, but that one was perfect, but unfortunately literally next to the main track. We didn't have the feeling that it will be any problem, but there is always a doubt.
After setting up our "Parador" for the night, panoramic view over the valley, James cooked his famous tuna-pasta. We finally could test the little camp fire stove for drying our soaking wet socks. We better do not mention, that the socks smelled very smokey and cheesey next morning!
After a peaceful night, a bit chilly for one of us, we left the place as we have found it; OK the grass was a bit flatter and some stones are re-arranged.... The TET meandered along from one valley to the next, always with beautiful scenery and view over to the "snowy mountain" Sierra Nevada. We were all the times between 1400m and 2000m for another 60km, without even meeting a soul - oh, no, not true, once a car with the "Parque Rangers".
In Juviles, our turn-around point, finally we had breakfast, even though it was nearly noon. From here we went along the A-4130 towards Laroles, where Amarelinha desperately needed petrol again (due to GPS the next petrol station on-track). When we arrived there (yes, Stefanie recognized that one again from her previous road trip) the man told us, that they are waiting for the lorry with petrol only in the afternoon. Seriously?!? Next petrol station was down in the valley, another approx. 15km downhill rolling and praying. In Ugijar we could fill up the bikes with petrol and our stomachs with some tapas and beer for lunch.
Topped up we went back to the A-4130 via A-4196, back the same track back from Laroles to Abla on the TET. In Abla, nearly feeling like home, we topped up again petrol and did some shopping for the evening. From the waiter of the bar (owner of a Suzuki DRZ400) we got the tip how to get back on the TET just behind the bar. That was really rocky for a good kilometer.
We went for about another 30km through riverbeds, as they are used as common connections between the villages and houses, to find again a nice camping spot close to Los Navarros. This time was not the flat area the problem, this time a wind-sheltered one as there were no trees around to protect us from the strong wind blowing. Off the TET, over a small hill we found finally a sheltered place, with even some tiny, dried olive trees. We have done today about 200km, unfortunately a good chunk on-road due to the low range of petrol of Amarelinha. But we went early to sleep, with a big smile on our face, listening to the wind howling through the valley.
Next morning, only a short ride to Los Navarros, we had again the famous, yummie Spanish breakfast. Then we hit the TET towards Almeria, and again for kilometres through riverbeds until we had to branch off into the hills, up to nearly 2000m again.
During that photostop James noticed that on his XT the output shaft seal started to leak oil - oh no! It looked like it is not much, so we should be ok until Almeria, but there we have to try to get minimum something done as we, worst case, have to drive it back to the car. The route until Almeria was very beautiful with very good tracks through the hills. In far distance we started to get a glimpse of the polytunnels of all the fruit plantagen - it looked like the coastal line is all covered in snow, all white.
Today, still up there in the mountains, we saw quite often mouflons (or similar, typical for the area), which was so great to see them climbing like goats on these steep, stoney areas. Unfortunately we couldn't get a picture of them as they were pretty shy, and we only had our mobile phones with us...
The last 40km down to Almeria were really rocky; sort of gravel road, but with gravel sized of golf balls, which made it challenging for Stefanie as pretty bumpy.
Finally arrived in Almeria we first headed down to a bar at the beach front to get a well-deserved beer, and then to make a plan for sorting out the XT and accommodation - priorities!
Once we had our beer and ordered some tapas we started to google Yamaha dealer. There were 2 options on google with good critics so that we opted to go to one and then to then other to find out how much they can help us to resolve the problem. A bit tricky to stick together in the busy city of Almeria during afternoon rush hour and finding at same time the shop. Finally we found the first one, but he was not a garage and couldn't point us into the right direction.
So, off to the next one. A combined Yamaha & BMW dealer. He also couldn't help us, but Stefanie was persisting that even James could do the job if he could get the spare part and then he suddenly remembered someone that could help us. One phone call later, he gave us the phone number and said to call this number tomorrow morning and this person could help us. Ah, ok, well, let's see what that will be then. So, now we have to sort out our accommodation for the night. With our driving around in circles Stefanie remembered a hotel on one of the Avenidas close to the first shop. So we tried to get back there, again through the busy rush hour, but unfortunately it was already fully booked. So we had to go online to find another hotel, this time right in the centre. Off we went again and found it. They would have a room, but not a garage. We are really lucky today! However, they recommended the hotel across the road as they got a garage. And yes, 3rd time lucky: room and garage! After we had a shower we went to a close-by tapas bar for dinner.
Next morning, after breakfast, we called that number and Francisco was in his garage and told me the street and area. We googled it and after loading the bikes we hit the road again, trying to find the garage; not that easy if your GPS-devices suddenly start to play up in the centre of the city. Finally my favourite app Sygic helped us to get there. Francisco, called Pelos or Paco, was super helpful. Entering his workshop / garage you straight knew you were at the right place, this guy has knowledge. It didn't take him long to get the old seal, left us both on our little own as he whizzed off on his KTM to get a new seal; wow, what a guy, leaving us here alone, as he also got a small shop within the garage.
We spend most of the morning talking to him and his friend about motorbike tours, Wikilocs, TET, Portugal, etc. Just before midday we hit finally the TET again - and yes, you guessed correctly, we drove again for kilometres in the riverbeds until the area they did some famous film; and currently there seemed to be some filming as we passed crew-cars and caravans.
After Mini-Hollywood we started to go back into the mountains, meandering around and over the hills north of Almeria, through different terrain. The tracks were mostly easy going, in the valleys through riverbeds, but one uphill track was in pretty bad shape due to heavy rains earlier in the year. Up on the top were some road worker with their little car - wonder how they got up there! We started then to search for a nice spot to have our lunch-picnic. During the picknick we suddenly heard massive shooting which made us wondering which film they were filming in the valley. As it didn't really stop and sounded more serious, we started to look on our google and discovered that we were basically sitting on the boarder to a massive military area - that explains it!
After lunch the track went around the military area to the area of Tabernas. There Amarelinha got some petrol, we topped up the essential things for tonights camping, such as red wine, crisps, 2 cold beers and water. Again through riverbeds for kilometres until we started to get back into the hills, where we started to look into a spot for camping. Also, Stefanie was feeling not too well; the sardine paté at lunch didn't go down too well obviously... Again in the mountains it was difficult to find a flat spot to put up the tent, but we found finally one next to the track. As it was pretty rocky we thought nobody will pass here; but due to James passed late in the evening at last daylight a brand new Range Rover, probably giving it a good test ride!
Our camping spot was again in about 1500 m and Stefanie was really happy to have her little hot water bottle; to keep her warm and for her belly to settle. Today we only did about 160km, but through fantastic versatile terrain, so we slept very well.
Next morning, after a short camping cafe, we packed all in. The track during this morning was again from one valley to another one, always staying between 1500 and 2000m, and again for kilometres not seeing a soul. The scenery was stunning and versatile after each corner.
For lunch we were, guess ... yes, in Abla. Welcome back! For this trip most probably the last time! Now it was basically back-tracking to Pozo Alcón. We were really curious what, and where, was at the other side of the gate. The closer we got the more curious we got. Just about 600m before the gate was another gate! Seriously?! As we knew what is on the other side and that it was possible to get the bikes around, James investigated the locker. Nothing a 22mm spanner couldn't resolve! However, we didn't regret our detour on the first day as it was through such a beautiful mountain panorama.
In Gor we had to crack on to get to the car at Casa Azul, leaving our camping gear and head to our destination for the next 3 nights. Knowing what we were facing, you could occasionally hear a lot of complaints and swearing of Stefanie through the intercoms! Poor James! Once at the car, we left all in the boot of the car and whizzed off to Castril where our final destination for the next 3 nights was waiting.
On the edge of Embalse del Portillo (Castril), was Casa Azul. We just arrived on the last hour of daylight. We quickly unpacked the bikes and then had a glass of wine and some crisps as sundowner right on the edge of the Embalse to enjoy the atmosphere and letting the trip pass revue.
During the next 3 days we discovering the surrounding area of Castril by foot and on our bikes, but mostly we chilled and relaxed. Sunday early morning packing all up in Casa Azul, Catril, heading off to Casa Azul, Pozo Alcón loading bikes and gear. Then it was for James to be the chauffeur to get us back to Algarve, Portugal in nearly 30°C, of course still without any A/C in the car.
Places | Cities:
TET Andalucia, Spain
Driven km | Trip:
Stefanie: 1000km
James: 1000km
Maintenance | Breakdown:
XT - output shaft seal leaking - replaced
Amarelinha - broken speedometre
Amarelinha - leaking engine case - quick but efficient fix
Health issues:
None
Special thanks to:
Lisa Payne for her lovely houses
Francisco (Paco) from "Pelos Competición" in Almeria for being super helpful