NORTH AGAIN
Passing the Empty Quarter
29th October - 31st October | 2023
The next morning I was planning to visit the “Old Town'' AlUkhdud Archaeological Site and from there make my way towards Riyadh skirting along the Empty Quarter, to cover a distance of 1000km. Whilst I packed up my bike, there was suddenly a deafening “bang” - what was that? The hotel staff checked all around and their electrical panel outside, but no source was found. As Yemen is about to get involved in the war in Israel, I wonder if that had to do with it being so close to the border?!?
Unfortunately, AlUkhdud was still close as I was too early in the day, so I stopped at a fuel station to get fuel and some breakfast. My destination was the Hima archaeological site as there are old remains of wells and petroglyphs. I arrived about midday and the place was under construction. As I was the only person around I started to discuss with the security guard. What triggered me was that on Google was a review just from this morning and another one from yesterday. So why were these people allowed but not me?!? So discussing in English and German and the security in Arabic - conclusion one of the responsible finally came.
What a kind man. He explained to me in his little English, that they were doing construction work to make the site better for tourists to visit. However, he was happy to show me another place of the ancient wells for the caravans. Luckily I could go with him in the Jeep as it was pretty sandy! He showed me the old wells - how amazing is that! How did they know back in the day that they would find water here? And the construction of the well; lasting until today! One of the wells still had flowing fresh water. Amazing!
He also showed me the petroglyphs that I would have missed, even being about 100m away from my motorbike. All so fascinating! After thanking Sultan for his kindness and all the information, I was back on the road to Uruq Bani Ma’arid National Park.
The Uruq Bani National Park (www.ncw.gov.sa) is known for their wildlife like Antelopes and Onyx. You should apply for the entry prior by email through the above website. I just took my chances just to pitch up and kindly ask to camp and join them on their morning routine-control tour.
Once arrived at the entrance up on the hill, there were the houses of the Rangers. They were all sitting outside having a cafe break. You can imagine the looks I got from being on the bike, especially after I took my helmet off revealing I am a woman ;-)
One of the Rangers, the Chief Ranger called Hamad, spoke a little English and I asked him about the procedure to join them on a tour. He gave me the above website to apply for, but the only thing I could do was apply for a fishing licence or transporting meat/fresh goods… Also, the internet was not the best up there, so finally I sent him a copy of my passport and he asked himself for the authorisation. I still had to write an email providing the information and asking for permission to camp. Even though we wouldn't get the answer today, he showed me my camping spot for the night, which was just in front of a massive sand dune. How cool is that?!?
As great as that was, I was not too keen about that as it was a wee windy and I suspected it would get worse during the night, but he was already gone.
Indeed, it got worse during the night, and I had to get out various times to protect the inside of my tent and check my bike. Finally, closer to dawn I fell asleep and the next thing a car jenckes the horn next to my tent. It was one of the Rangers who picked me up for the morning routine tour. I called him Bud Spencer as he looked like the younger version ;-) Unfortunately he didn't speak a word of English, so unfortunately I couldn't ask him anything. However, he had very good eyes as he pointed to things in the distance - guess Onyx or Antelopes as I didn't see anything! It would be good if they would provide the visitors with some binoculars for their untrained eyes…However, it was a stunning tour through the dunes and along the edge of the Natural Park.
After I packed up I went to the main gate and was invited to join them for breakfast. Unfortunately, the Chief Ranger was not around to ask him everything I wanted to know. What a pity! But the breakfast was delicious and lots of things - oh, and eating with one hand! With breakfast, I slowly mastered the technique as you can easily grab or scoop things with your bread, but dinner is still a challenge - and a mess!
After breakfast, it was time to Thank them for their hospitality and wave them Goodbye. They told me where I would find the next open fuel station as I needed some fuel soon. It is still a long stretch to Riyadh, about 800km on the National Road/Highway. However, the scenery was pretty interesting. At some point, on the other side, there was a huge military convoy on its way South. I wonder if they reinforce their military down towards Yemen?
I made over 400km on this road. I had 3 fuel stops, more for me to have something cool to drink and rest a bit. It is always interesting to stop at these fuel stations as this is when mainly the locals approach you. Normally it is the men and then you see the females only in the car, filming you through the window (Snapchat!). They are always curious to know where you are coming from. They might not know where Portugal is located in Europe, but they all know Cristiano Ronaldo ;-) I really enjoy these "meetings" on these fuel stations, even better normally in remote areas. The locals are so sweet and kind, and so curious! Unfortunately though, as much as they love to take Snapchat videos or pictures of you, they would not allow to take any of you, especially the women.
At one village, there was a camping spot marked on iOverlander, so I searched for it. I missed it, but like that, I found even a better one. Tucked away behind piles of earth and it didn't look like there had been a car in the last days, judging by the tyre tracks. At night I slept like a log until I heard someone talking close to my tent early in the morning. I sat upright in my tent as I thought it was the local security. It was only the muezzin from the nearby mosque for the morning prayer - pew!
Even though it is a "boring" long straight stretch from the South up to Riyadh, I enjoy it as there is always something different to see. In the next blog, we will come back "into civilisation" and while you are waiting, please enjoy, for a change, a glass of water ;-)
Places | Cities:
Uruq Bani National Park.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 27790 km
Information Border Crossings:
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Maintenance | Breakdown:
./.
Health issues:
./.
Special thanks to:
Uruq Bani National Park to be so amazing and the Rangers full of hospitality.