RIYADH
And the SHAQRA GIRLS
3rd November - 5th November | 2023
The next morning, I was invited by the Guesthouse family to have breakfast at a Bedouin camp; the camp of the brother of the family. How privileged is that? It was so fantastic getting out there with all the bags full of delicious homemade food and seeing how they still live like Bedouins.
They had a herd of goats and lots of baby goats. They are so cute with their long leathery ears, nearly falling over them. Reminds me a bit of the Walt Disney story of “Dumbo, the Elephant”.
It was so nice having breakfast with the family out in their traditional surroundings. I appreciate the privilege! After breakfast, we still had a tour around the really old parts of Shaqra, which probably in a few years will no longer anymore exist as these clay houses will then completely collapse.
In the afternoon, at 16h00 on the dot, the “Shaqra girls” really came and picked me up! I am so excited. Here it seems nobody cares how many people fit in a car as we were in the back 4 women and 1 child! We drove up to a popular viewpoint, where they planned to have a picnic. They had a carpet in the boot as carrying that around for these purposes seems normal. And then all the sweets, some savoury food and Arabic Cafe and for later Mint tea. It was so great to sit and chat with the girls - well, as much as their English permitted. As much as they were curious about me, I was about them and their life, kids, work, etc. I was even lucky that they occasionally lifted their masks so that I could see their full face. They also showed me videos of family weddings - you won't believe the dresses they wear at these events! Elegant and show their curves - completely different from what you see daily in the streets. Not talking about hairstyle and make-up! It is like two different people! Amazing! I was so grateful for these insights into their life! And as I was planning to come back in about a good week we agreed to meet up again! I am already looking forward to that meeting as they are such a lovely bunch of girls - “my Shaqra girls”.
However, as much as they love to take pictures and videos of me, I couldn’t take any of them - so sorry for not showing these happy girls!
The next day, it was time to check out. It was so fantastic and relaxing here that I booked myself in again in about a week. This time I want to make sure I can stay 3-4 days to chill a bit more as I have the feeling I need some good time to relax. I know, I am travelling and you would think it is relaxing - like one's holiday, but every day in constant heat, thinking where to sleep, sorting out accommodation and food or fuel, etc is a constant “stress” in this lifestyle of a Nomad. And bear in mind, I am already on the road since Easter. My body is asking for some off time…
Once packed up, fuelled up, topped up the local SIM card and had a cafe, it was time to get into the capital, Riyadh. First I wanted to visit the exhibition of “The Line” of Neom close to Riyadh, but it just closed down three days ago. Seriously?!? I was so excited to visit that place and to see the idea of that futuristic project with my own eyes. Pity!
The next stop was the heritage village of At Turaif, but as it was a Saturday there were a lot of streets closed off by security - mainly due to construction. After the 3rd round of no success finding a bike-safe parking place that I didn't need to pay for and still have not to walk far in my sauna suit, I gave up! I concluded by the look at the cars parked around, that a simple Coke would cost a fortune! Also, the architecture didn't look too different from the other heritage villages I have seen already.
As offered by Mohammed to stay in his house, I contacted him about a meeting point close to his house. As he was still not home, I was happy to sit somewhere to finally have a snack and a cafe whilst waiting for him. I got a bit lost in Riyadh that I ended up in the Diplomatic Area and at the gates of The Ritz - and of course, the security wouldn't let me through ;-)
Mohammed lives with his family, so each part has his area in the big house. I got my little room (the sort of living room, where guests get welcomed) and toilet on the premises. Like that, I could stay independent of the family. It was so kind of them to offer me to stay at their place - unfortunately, I didn't see much of them as they were all busy with work and their life. And due to that reason not a single picture....
The next day, late afternoon I went to BMW to find out about my spare part (the one that was not in Jeddah). They were all super nice at the motorbike section. I complained to the responsible, as this spare part seems to be a ghost I am hunting ;-) Well, on the other hand, it is not an essential part, meaning, if it doesn't arrive, I will sort it out at another stage.
Later on, I was supposed to meet Ehab, a friend of Mahsa, at Harley Davidson, which is nearly opposite of BMW. As that official address was only popping up in Google Maps as a rent-a-bike place I opted for the other one. It took me 20mins to get there. It took me a while to find a Harley Davidson workshop in the dark back road of an industrial site. It was already weird driving around there as I was expecting something big and flashy. The worker there sent me to the right address - another 20mins back to where I came ;-)
Finally, I arrived at the correct address to meet Ehab. What a lovely guy. He showed me the premises as they got their meeting place in the basement with a huge garage to store bikes. Wow, that is fantastic! Also, did I meet the manager of the shop. Ehab had organised for me to meet some of the Lady Riders which arrived shortly after. They took straight over so that I didn’t see Ehab anymore…
These girls are fantastic! It was so great to meet them and hear their stories about how they got to riding motorbikes and driving licences. Later on, we all went for dinner with our bikes. One thing is driving on your own through the crazy traffic in Riyadh, but another one is trying to stay with the girls as they are used to that craziness.
During dinner, I mentioned that I would love to visit “The Edge of the World” west of Riyadh, but I wouldn't be sure if I could make it with my fully loaded bike on my own. As it is such a great place it didn't take long, and Eman had arranged a tour guide with a jeep for all of us the following day. Wow, that is amazing! So spontaneous!
I knew that Sam and Ahmad from Jeddah were also in Riyadh. I asked them if they wanted to join us the next day. They were also up for it - going in their jeep though. So we arranged to meet all together at 13h00 at the premises of Ghamra. And I would meet them for breakfast at Sam’s boyfriend Rushdi.
As I didn't want to abuse my stay at Mohammed, I asked Eman also to help me to find a hotel. We finally got that also arranged for the next evening. Perfect!
I am so deeply sorry to not have many pictures of these people, but the women do not like to be photographed, so you have to respect that. And then I forgot again to take some when I was with the Riyadh Biker Ladies. However, in the next blog, you will find finally pictures of these girls when we go to "The Edge of the World". I hope you still liked that blog with only a few pictures. Whilst you are waiting for the next one, please enjoy an Iced Cappuccino.
Places | Cities:
Shaqra, Riyadh.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 28755 km
Information Border Crossings:
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Maintenance | Breakdown:
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Health issues:
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Special thanks to:
The "Shaqra Girls" for the fun afternoon with them.
Shaqra Heritage Guesthouse to be such a relaxing oasis.
Ehab to arrange for me the meeting with the Riyadh Biker Ladies.