Strumica - North Macedonia | Steffi of Moto Momentum

…And the bike issue continues

29th May - 30th May | 2023

In the morning I took it easy as I wanted to go to a MotoCamp on the Macedonian* side for the night before going up to Skopje to finally meet up with Katrina (FB: Ekaterina Dubanevich), another famous RTW-rider. Before I packed up my bike I tested starting it, to see if it still works after the day of rest; all perfect. So let's go!

In Petrich, after the recommendation of John from the Camping Kromidovo, I went to buy some homemade peanut butter :-D From there I went directly to the border crossing, which took about 30mins as there were some cars in front of me. Once in Macedonia* I went to Strumica to find a bank to get some Denar (local currency) to get me through the next few days, as there are places you need to pay in cash.

Starting my bike it was again a bit hesitant. Please, nooooo! So maybe not the battery! So I better put the voltage meter on to check. It was again lower than it should be, so maybe I should not stop for a while to recharge itself.... still convinced it is the battery.

Of course, still camping in my mind, I stopped at a small supermarket in Strumica to get some food for the night. Some ladies sitting outside of the shop already watched me carefully as probably not many women on big bikes stop there, or ride around. After all, was packed away, I wanted to start the bike - nothing! Battery flat! So that means it is not the battery, it is the alternator or stator that cannot hold the voltage or better recharge the battery during riding. I asked the first man coming out of the supermarket if he has a jump cable to help me start. He didn´t and he said, I can buy one in the city centre. Wow, that is great, as I am in my riding gear and it is about 26C - oh and about a 3km walk! So, I just wanted to ask some workers next door, but I wanted to leave my gear with the cashier of the supermarket so that I can roam around free. She didn't understand me, but a guy in the queue did, and he said to wait as he got the cable! Hurray!!

So I unloaded all again, including the pannier to reach my tools - very much to the delight of these ladies sitting outside of the shop! Today they definitely can tell something at home ;-) So we started the bike and while I packed all away, and got dressed I occasionally played with the gas to keep the battery load. I was just about to put my leg over the seat when the engine died again! No, no, no!!! So it is to find again somebody to jump-start my bike. This time I was a bit smarter! I took again all my tools out, as at the bottom of my panniers, but I kept only the torx out as that is the only one I need! Packing the bike up and leaving my gear at the supermarket. In the meantime, I spoke to a man with a German registered car and he gave me directions to an "electrician" close by that I should ask him for the cables...

Off I went in the direction he gave me, and walking down the street, I saw some old cars at the bottom of the street, like a garage or similar. So walked there, and asked a guy repairing a car. He looked a bit crosseyed and of course, didn't understand what I needed. I used google Translate, but not sure if he could read or understand what I want. He pointed me then across that sort of scrab jard to a petrol station. Somehow I realised then that I was suddenly a bit within a gipsy area. Great, hope I will find some help here! There were two guys coming in a van and I asked them. Same story, they didn't understand me, but finally the jinx out of google Translate. They took me around the house to some gipsy-looking girls. And surprise, surprise, one of them spoke German! I explained the situation and she did the translation for me to the boys. They said they will come with me to check. I thanked her and spoke a bit with her as I was so surprised by her German. She invited me to a cafe, but I wanted to get the bike sorted.

So whilst I walked back to my motorcycle, I rang Katrina to ask her if I could come already tonight. I quickly explained the situation as Macedonia* is not included in my phone contract. It was no problem for her if I come already tonight. Perfect - one problem already resolved! The boys wanted to see if the bike doesn't start - believe me, it doesn't start! They were discussing and scratching their heads. They suggested pushing my bike to this garage that might have the starting cable. Seriously - you want to push 300kg around! No way! I asked them to get me the cable and help me to start so I can get on my way. A tractor with another bunch of gipsies passed by, and they flagged that driver down as they seemed to know each other. This is really getting hilarious now!

The two boys left, and I hope they go and get the cable. The guy from the tractor came and spoke German. So I again explained the problem and he wanted me to turn the key in the ignition. Yeah, sure, just his appearance will make the bike start ;-) Believe me, I just need a jump starter! I explained that to him, and he said he understands, but I need transport to Skopje and transport to Skopje will be expensive. Noooooo, I just need a jump-start cable. ... Yes, he understands, but transport to Skopje is expensive! That sort of conversation went on until the boys came with the starting cable - Hurray!!! So whilst we got all ready to jump-start my bike I got also ready to get dressed and asked the boys to screw the screws back on to not waste any time to get the bike going! Also to get out of that! I gave them some Denars as Thank you for the kids to get some more ice cream and off I went - thanking them again!

You could see during riding the voltage metre slowly dropping to 12V and slowly below ... Oh, no... still about 100km to go! Please Schimmelchen, let us get to Skopje and then we will resolve the problem tomorrow! Also, this was now a race of keeping the battery running but also making it with the fuel I have because I cannot stop to fuel up! About 65km to Skopje comes the first toll booth. I saw the sign for a card, so I went there. Whilst I was trying to pay with my Revolut card, I tried to rev the bike occasionally to not stop, but the card reader wouldn't take my card. As I was too busy to get the payment sorted, of course, the engine died again; the voltage went under 10V!!

I went across to the booth of payment, where someone was sitting and explained the situation about the payment. She said to roll the bike over - hahaha, good joke! So I left her some money and rolled my motorcycle back across the entrance of the toll booth to the side, where I got first out of my gear. I then went back to that lady and explained the new situation. I was obviously lucky as it was her cafe break so she took me into the office. Also, since the supermarket I was really desperate for a toilet. So after that was done, I explained again to her and her boss about the situation. They were so sweet, they offered me a tea.

I was just gone back to my bike, which means crossing all the lanes of the toll booths when one of the guys shouted at me. The responsible obviously found a start cable and so he came by car and from across the road a lorry driver with the cable. We started the bike but lost so much time chatting, that the bike died again before I even got dressed. And, of course, the lorry driver with cable was gone! I wanted him to wait, as I saw it coming, but nobody would listen to a woman!

So, I went back with him to the office and had a cup of tea then. I would have to wait now for the next shift responsible, which would come in about 90mins; he probably has a cable for me to start the bike. OK, no problem, I am sitting here in the cool, got my biscuits (another journey across the motorway!) and a lovely cup of tea! I was talking to the woman and her colleague and they were really sweet! So I got entertained by the various shifts/staff whilst waiting - all super nice! Also, I updated Katrina about the status quo.

At about 19h the responsible for the shift turned up, but he didn't know anything about the whole drama, so no jump start kit! I could call my insurance, but then I don´t know how long it will take to get my bike to Skopje ... so I need to find another solution. He said he is calling a mechanic nearby to come and help me - I asked him to find out how much it will be as I am not carrying a lot of cash around. Also being a woman on a motorcycle could give the impression you are loaded with money!! At least he didn't know I was German ;-)

So another 20mins wait and the mechanic turned up. After he lit his fag, he started to investigate the problem. Well, actually his young assistant. He pointed to the alternator and I should get that replaced. He video-called his wife for translating. She said I need to go to Skopje to BMW to get the bike checked! Of course, I need to go to Skopje - where else shall I go? I told all the time I am on my way to Skopje to resolve the problem!! He charged my battery for about 20mins, sufficient enough to get me to Skopje. They asked for €40 ... debatable if that was too much or not, but they had to come to me and then spend nearly an hour with me to help me and recharge my battery ... and I was happy to go finally as it was already 20h, so soon getting dark, not able to use much my phone as Macedonia*`out of my contract, not knowing 100% where Katrina lives and big thunderstorm lying ahead of me! Happy days!!

I passed another 2 toll booths, this time I used the cash payment. I started with 12.3V and by the time I reached the outskirts of Skopje I was already down to 11.5V!! I was lucky with the weather as I just missed the big thunderstorm, but the lighting seeing in front was pretty scary!

In Skopje, I went where I thought she lives. I send her the coordinates and rang her - that was the wrong location, about 20mins from her! Oh noooo, my voltage is down to 11.5!! In order to give her a better indication, I asked a young lady to give Katrina better information about the location. She was so nice, she gave me "internet" (tethering), so I could share life location with Katrina. This woman even waited until Katrina came. Whilst we waited I kept the engine running, but I could see the voltage going down towards 11V ... and of course, no ventilation as no movement, so the engine started to heat up as well! It was a pure race against time!!

How relieved was I to see Katrina arriving!! I thanked the other woman and off we went. We made it to the next traffic light 500m down the road when my engine died again - the same time as it started to rain! Great!! So we rolled the bikes onto the pavement of the big crossroad. She called her friend Ivan, and he came about 10mins later with a jump cable - borrowed from his neighbour! We rolled my motorcycle onto one of the islands on the crossroad, where also the car would have space. After the bike was started, we opted that I will put it in the garage of Ivan and he will drop me off then at the apartment of Katrina.

At Ivans, we wedged my bike between two other bikes in his garage, and I took the stuff I need to Katrinas in his car. At about 23h30 I was finally at Katrinas' apartment. After I send a message to my mum and James it was time for us girls to have some dinner! Tomorrow is another day to sort out my motorcycle!!

I hope you could feel the comical moments and the effort of the people to help me get the motorcycle started. They were all so nice and helpful!! As I think it is quite a long post with hardly any pictures, I am afraid, you will have to wait until the next blog, to find out what the problem finally is and how we get it fixed. In the meantime, enjoy a glass of Macedonian* wine!

*Republic of North Macedonia

North Macedonia*

…And the bike issue continues

29th May - 30th May | 2023

Skopje

Bulgaria