GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY
And then off to Armenia
26th July - 28th July | 2023
Today we want to go up the Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda. While sorting out my documents for the carnet de passage, two German boys pulled into the parking lot of the guesthouse. They spoke with James and we got some information about the state of the TET around the area. Around the north side of the Zhinvali reservoir is all easy offroad. What they haven't mentioned, is that it was super bumpy all the way until you hit the Georgian Military Highway. It was bone-rattling, but a good workout for the suspension (the BMW is fitted with www.tfxsuspension.com).
Once we were on the Georgian Military Highway, the main road into/from Russia, the traffic got really crazy as there were so many lorries. In one village we found a nice place for lunch, where we also searched the internet for a place to camp for the night. We decided to go into the Truso Gorge for the night. Until there, up into the mountains, over switchbacks, the traffic came in parts to a complete standstill. Being on a motorbike we could move along, on both sides, to the front. It was mainly due to roadwork after fixing the road after landslides. The traffic was a total kamikaze as lorries would overtake lorries in these traffic jams, even though it is more challenging to get back into a slot, cars would overtake in switchbacks or even on blind spots - and us amongst all that craziness!
How peaceful and nice was it after we entered the Truso Valley. We found a lovely wild camping spot along a river. There was already a German couple in a converted old fire brigade truck. As they didn't mind us camping close by on that piece of land, we pitched up our tent, surrounded by high mountains. It will be the first time camping at 2000m altitude. We had a view over a 5000m mountain, which was just on the Russian side. What a camping spot! It didn't take long, and we also had a pack of dogs around us. Later in the evening, we could watch the herds of sheep and cows coming into the valley, and down to the farm on the opposite side of the river. That was so idyllic to watch, better than nowadays television ;-)
Later in the evening we sat with the lovely German family and shared our travel stories. It was a really nice evening. At about midnight, we went back to our tent to sleep, still surrounded by all the dogs (varying between 4 and 7 dogs). I didn't sleep at all that night, as they kept me awake. They were barking a lot of times, and of course, in that sort of environment, my brain was tricking me all the time. I was thinking there was either a bear or some wolves they protected us from What also did not help, was there was some heavy (dog) fighting going on at times. When it was quiet for one moment, James and I stepped out, and what didn't help my little brain was that at the farm the farmers were running around with their torches.
The next morning, when we got up, we finally found out what triggered it all night: the (only) female dog was in heat! Her partner defended her from the other male dogs all the time! I felt so sorry for her, as she looked like she just had a litter and now she is on heat again! And what an adorable dog she was! Pity she is so far away from home …
After all packed up it was time to hit the Georgian Military Highway again, to get up to Stepantsminda, to visit the Gergeti Trinity Church, overlooking the valley. From there you got a glimpse of that Russian 5000m mountain. Up there we also met Ollie again (YT: ollietuomas6), whom we met up at Abano-Omalo pass the other day. He had to wait in the area for another 5 days until he could enter Russia with his visa.
Riding back the Georgian Military Highway today was still a bit crazy, but not any more total madness as less traffic and today they even had people that organised the traffic around the road work. The only road hazards were now the cows that were leisurely lying on one half of that busy road to enjoy the sunshine. They didn’t move at all, not even blinking with their eyes when the lorries drove around them!
Back in the valley, in Ananuri, we had a stop for a drink and shopping. We found on iOverlander a camping spot close to a lake just North of Tbilisi, so we still would stay a bit in the mountains before we crossed the capital to get to the Armenian border. On Google map I had seen a road going through the mountains over the villages to our camping spot, instead of using the national road. What appeared to be a road, was all offroad! How lucky was that?
At Bazaleti Lake, it took us a while to find an ideal camping spot, but once we established a place it didn't take long and we had 1-4 dogs around us. So another sleepless night for me, as one of the dogs barked all night - for no reason as the others remained quiet.
The next morning we had to get through the crazy traffic jams in Tbilisi to get to the South to the border with Armenia. It was really hot in the city, but once we got “spit out” on the other side, it was again nice as the wind gets through your clothes once you are on the move. The landscape changed completely to a prairie type with rolling hills in the far distance. Coming closer to the border we were looking for a place to have a snack for lunch and a coke, but all you could get was shops selling washing powder in big quantities!
At about 13h00 we reached the border to Armenia. It was easy getting stamped out of Georgia and into Armenia, but then we had to register with customs. That was a bit of a longer process. I thought I could get it done for both bikes, but they insisted on James dealing with his papers himself. I was lucky that a Georgian lorry driver helped me get in the queue before another driver took my space. When we were half into the paperwork a customs officer came in with 3 men and threw their paperwork on the counter and that immediately stopped my process. Great! At least he handed my papers over to his colleague, so I queued up on the other side. Well, I just stood ready at the window and as soon as the person prior to me was finished I could step in. Whilst I was waiting another biker from Georgia approached me. He was on the way to a biker festival in Armenia. Finally, I got all sorted, but what made me a bit wondering was that I didn't receive a paper or needed to sign anything like all the lorry drivers before me.
It was then James' turn. While I waited for him, another biker pulled up and we ended up talking. It turned out that he is a good friend of Ivan, the mechanic in Tbilisi. Like that, the waiting time for James was not too long. And James turned up with a paper for my bike from customs - they gave it to him! Now it was about getting 3rd party insurance for our stay. The offices were all lined up outside of the border area. We went into one and it took again forever to sort out all the paperwork - at least we stood under a nice cool A/C!
As they also sell SIM cards it took a bit longer as I got moved between two counters. With all the time we spent in there, and being moved around, nobody ever charged me for the insurance or the SIM card. I wonder when they will notice! The next obstacle was getting some cash as the guesthouse apparently only takes cash payments. Once we had some money 3 hours had passed. The guesthouse "Iris B&B" was just 40km along the road. It was a nice place, very unique and decorated with a lot of old things from the 70s and 80s. While we had tea, we got talking to a Dutch cyclist lady. She and her partner are cycling until the end of the year - another brave couple!
Whilst we unpacked and took a shower it started to rain and thunder again. There was a really heavy rain shower! We were so glad that we had booked the guesthouse! We had ordered dinner and it was super delicious homemade food! All fresh and very yummy!
Let's see in the next blog what Armenia has to offer for us! I hope to be back next week for the next blog! In the meantime enjoy an iced cafe!
Places | Cities:
GEORGIA:
Stepantsminda, Tbilisi
ARMENIA:
Akori
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 14795 km
Information Border Crossings (in July 2023):
Georgian Side:
Passport, bike documents.
Armenian Side:
Passport, bike documents, driving licence.
Important:
Being patient at the customs office for TIP
Buying vehicle insurance at the border - obligatory
Maintenance | Breakdown:
./.
Health issues:
./.
Special thanks to:
Truso Valley being so stunning.
The adorable (poor) female shepherd dog.