Evia Island
And a bit more offroad
20th May - 21st May | 2023
Early in the morning, I heard Tony, the early bird, rummaging around, but that was too early for me. At about 7am I finally crawled out of the tent, and shortly after he was already on his track! I started to pack up my stuff as I didn't want to get caught for wild camping.
I went then the 20km to the ferry from Rafina to Marmari. I was lucky, the ferry was already there, so I got my ticket and went to the boat. The controlling guy asked me about the 2nd person as the woman sold me tickets for 2 adults and 1 motorcycle - serious! I was already a bit wondering about the fee and getting 3 pieces of paper. So I parked my bike at the side and went to her to complain. She gave me the money for the ticket and off I was on my way back to get onto the ferry. Of course, thank the man that told me about it!
The drive was only 1 hour, so in the meantime, I had a cafe and flapjack for breakfast and sorted out my next route. This time I also opted for some offroad along the coast as it didn't look like very steep inclines, just along the coast. Once off the boat, I first had to do some road, but lovely backroads into the mountains of Evia. All so lovely green and the blue sky made it for a perfect day.
After a while, the track forked off onto dirt and it didn't look too difficult as it seemed to be the service tracks for checking the wind generators, also some houses were along - well, as long as I could see it. Also on Google there were pictures of small beaches... so shouldn't be too difficult. I felt pretty good until the third switchback where I realise how steep the switchbacks suddenly got on loose stones. I still felt comfortable, and in control, even though it was loose stones on a downhill switchback - and then bang, I hit the ground! I accidentally must have used a tiny wee bit too much the front break!
So, getting out my upper part gear and the bags on the back and surprise, surprise got the bike directly up! Wow, loving these Enduristan Monsoon Evo bags (www.enduristan.pt)! Quickly for a "pee with a view" and then getting ready for the rest as it looked like only one more switchback and then I should stay for a while on the same level. I could even see the track in the distance and it looked pretty nice (in the distance!).
I got easily down the rest, and enjoyed the lovely track along the sea, with stunning views, passing occasionally even a (holiday) house. And then it got rough again! Suddenly I found myself on switchbacks with loose stones downhill! It was a mixture of either "close your eyes and hope for the best" or switching off the engine and paddle, using the clutch as an additional break. And I could see on the other side the switchback going up with the same incline! And if the surface is like this, that will be fun! I am not sure, how I made it down, but I made it - being soaked in my gear though! Felt like jumping in the sea down at that tiny beach immediately to cool down!
I just wanted to get out of here! So I started the uphill, and as I was checking my line in the bend, I lost momentum (speed) and bumm, down we were again. So, the same procedure again: out of upper gear and the luggage on the rear rack. This time I also had to drag my bike into position to make use of gravity. I finally got it up, but what now! That was for me a spot where I wouldn't get onto the bike (remember I am not the tallest person!) to get out of it, nor could I really manually move the bike around due to the gravel. So it was a bit of a battle - also I couldn't make up my mind really in which position and where I want to get my bike, which didn't make it easier! I finally had it in a position, I thought I could ride it out, so had a big stone to support my "lower" leg and one under the side stand. Well, guess what, didn't take me long, and we were on the ground again!
This time I used a bit more my brain and dragged it already with the nose downhill and like that, I at least could go first downhill to turn around. Once around I hammered it around that bend, up the hill until the next switchback. Now I had to get my luggage and gear! Good exercise after all the good food in the last few days - sweating buckets! Once all was back in place I also had a plan! The switchbacks had always a little platform so I would now aim each time for them and then take the next step! Good, I had now that plan, as in the next switchback the gravel had been washed around the bend, so no way I could have got around that one!
With my new taktik, it worked pretty well, even though the straight uphills still had their moments! Man, I was sooooo glad when I finally was up on a levelled area - and searched now for the fastest way back onto a road!
It was still a bit challenging, but nothing compared to what I have done in the last 90mins (for about 10km)!! However, I still cannot believe what I have achieved there and that I have somehow managed pretty good these obstacles on my heavy-loaded Schimmelchen! I am proud of myself :-D Once on the main road, it took me nearly back to the town I started coming off the ferry good 3 hours ago! I followed the main road along the coastal mountain road, and got overtaken by the local police, who then chased the goats and sheep off the street with their horn! Also a way of getting home fast!
During that time, I could see on OsmAnd a line for a new road, and I could the road-to-be, in perfect offroad condition. So once down in the next town, I thought I will take that one! Well, that part wasn't developed yet, so I ended up riding along the local rubbish dump and ending up on bumpy farm tracks! So, back to the main road, and the next petrol station with a cafe shop as I needed desperately water and something to eat! Once all was refilled, I found a lovely private camping spot in the area of Konistres, sort of middle of the length of the island. Still, good 100km to go though!
I arrived about 17h at the camping spot, which looked more like a place for motorhomes and campervans as it was hard compounded gravel! I was so tired, I couldn't be bothered! I will stay here, and I will find a way to get the pegs in! Shortly after the owner Maria turned up - the most helpful person I have met so far at a camping place (Dragonera Cliffs, google: https://goo.gl/maps/VNMk9Hjmop9wA7kBA?coh=178571&entry=tt). Her husband gave me his hammer, and they even offered to help to pitch up the tent! How sweet is that!
Even though I was so tired, I went to the nearby village to the local Taberna to get some food. I just managed to finish my little dinner, but not even my beer! Back to the camping I basically crashed in my sleeping back, but feeling nausea. Also started with a headache, but that was caused by the heavy workout this afternoon! I only dozed off and around 2am I was covered in my own sweat, so I got out of my sleeping back, still sweating buckets! What is going on here - is that now menopause kicking in the hard way? Hopefully not yet - not time for that during travelling!! Then I felt sick, so I had to rush out of my tent and across the camping to the surrounding field! By then I wasn't sick anymore! How weird is that, but I was still boiling! The rest of the night I was more awake than asleep, and it took me a long time to cool down just lying on my sleeping bag!
The next morning, just starting to pack up, it started to rain! Seriously!? So back into my tent, packing already my stuff together and then it stopped also already. Maria came then, to bring some fresh fruits from her own yard - how nice is that! While I packed my things together, sorted out today's route, talking to my "neighbours" my tent was dry and I could finish the packing. Today it is road, as it is even a direct line 180km and I wanted to pack in some coastal road - ROAD! And that again was really versatile with stunning views! Really enjoyed that island!
In the evening I had a hotel in Pefki, nothing famous, and as still offseason, it was difficult to find something to eat. And what I finally got was also nothing famous! However, I was then so tired, that I just hit my pillow and had a good night's sleep!
I hope you enjoyed my adventure offroad ;-) Tomorrow it will be back to the mainland and stay tuned to find out what lies ahead of me ... In the meantime, cook a nice Moussaka for your friends and family - enjoy!
Places | Cities:
Evia Island
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 5900 km
Information Border Crossings (in May 2023):
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Maintenance | Breakdown:
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Health issues:
Start of menopause or heat stroke - pick your choice!
Special thanks to:
Evia to be such a versatile and beautiful island - pity I didn’t spend more time on it!