Bike Problems
Fuel-related problems…
25th April - 27th April | 2023
I was really lucky the next morning as it was a beautiful day. At least the cobblestones will be dry to get down to the main road! During breakfast, I was talking to the lovely Dutch couple that also stayed in the guesthouse. Once the bike was packed I pulled myself together and started to roll down the hill and in the end, it was pretty easy and no problem at all ;-) Probably my luck was that no traffic came from the other side.
Once down in town I filled up with petrol and went to the famous "Blue Eye" (Syri i Kaltër) fountain. From there I had to ride back to the main road over the lovely mountain pass. Once on the main road, it was only a short distance to the Greek border.
Once in Greece, I rode up to Vikos Gorge, to the Oxya viewpoint. What a fantastic road going up to that viewpoint on 1200m. I really enjoyed myself with the curves and the view over the mountains all around! And Vikos Gorge is just breathtaking! That is wow - and no real protection for you to go over the edge! I took my time and at some point, another rider came, and I had the giggles as he had on his jacket the Garmin in-reach, was wearing a Leatt neckbrace and had his Airoh helmet in the hand - like me! We started chatting, he is French and I actually passed him and his AJP yesterday in Tepelenë - small world. He is on his way to Georgia and Armenia - so safe travels Jean-Paul! Unfortunately, his friends' bike is at a garage in Sarandë with an alternator problem - not good!
On my way back to Albania I wanted to see the famous ancient stone bridge of Konitsa. As it was such a nice spot, I had there my lunch snack enjoying the view and sunshine. From there it was not far back to Albania and then into Përmet. When I started my engine, my exhaust sounded different, like an old bike that starts on a cold morning. Hmm, anything to worry? The engine sounds normal. So I carried on and the sound persisted. When I wanted to stop on a slope to check it, the engine cut out itself. That is strange! I messaged James and continued back to the border back to Albania. That border was deserted, I even had to go inside to catch some attention. Must have been dinner time ;-)
Once in Albania, driving that winding road to Përmet, my bike started to slag more and more, and on descending switchbacks (low idling) it occasionally even cuts out - no fun! I then was just thinking about the problem, and what could have triggered it, as I purposely bought the fuel filter from Guglatech for bad fuel. My bike felt like it is not getting 100% fuel. My biggest worry is now, it is the fuel pump that needs replacing as that is a known problem on these BMW GS 700 & 800s. That was the last 100000km already a worry on the back of my mind, but please not now! I want to enjoy my travel!
So, of course, I couldn’t enjoy the scenic view as only trying to get to a solution for the problem. If I would have a perfect running bike, I probably would have stopped again every 500m as it was breathtaking views after each bend. I was so happy to make it to the Nako Guesthouse (google map: https://goo.gl/maps/GvmdUoU3sU6g4RWeA ) right in the centre. Joan, the owner was super helpful with my luggage as I had to take it all off as parked outside on the street. I could leave the panniers in the restaurant, so that saved us from carrying them upstairs. I had a very spacious room - and the bathroom was this time the size of a dancing hall ;-)
In the evening I discussed the problem with James and I shall try to get to Greece to get looked into the fuel lines, tank and fuel pump. As I had a hotel at the beach South of Sarandë booked to chill and catch up I suggested visiting the mechanic of the French I met in Greece.
The next morning, before I even started loading my bike, I started the engine and it spluttered and then cut out. Great, that starts well! I rang James and he suggested changing the spark plugs. Good suggestion, but I am in Përmet, not the biggest town ... so I asked Joan from the guesthouse and he straight away knew where I would get "kandele", but it would be a car mechanic. He drove me down to the garage and after explaining to the mechanic, he agreed to come around to see the bike.
Back at Nako Guesthouse, I had a cafe and another call with James, as the mechanic arrived. Off I went on the spluttering bike to the garage. Even though he is a car mechanic, he really knew what he was doing. He even had two "kandele", but not Iridium, so he said I should change them soon (2000km) to the correct ones, but that would get me going. Also, did he give me some additive for the fuel as I had to top up. He confirmed that the fuel in Albania is really bad, that even modern cars have trouble these days! That sounds really promising! So I rode down to the Kastrati petrol station (apparently they got the "best" fuel). to fill up and add the additive. I wanted to make about 20km of a test ride to see if the problem persists.
Unfortunately it does! So it looks like I have to find a mechanic in Sarandë or even in Greece to check my fuel tank, maybe even clean it all, and do a pressure check on the fuel pump - as I said, worst case I will need a new fuel pump - EECKS! Eduardo, the mechanic, said it will take some time until the additive will kick in - Inshallah! However, he is the man, my hero of the day! If you ever have a problem with your vehicle in the area of Përmet, he is the man!! He knows what he does and he does it with passion. Besides, he restored his old Java and BMW (from 1959). Falemenderit for looking after Schimmelchen, that is at the moment more a rodeo horse ;-)
As it was raining again, I first had a lovely salad at Nako Guesthouse and then after the bike was loaded (and rain gone) I drove off to Sarandë, only 100km to go! Unfortunately I was for good 30km stucked behind a lorry, and each time he suddenly slowed down, I had to slow down and that led to the cutting out of my engine. Hurray, that will be a fun ride today!
I was glad, when I was at least in Saranë, even though the slow city traffic with the roundabouts was not ideally ... I was constantly revving the engine, like I am riding a sports bike....
I passed by the garage I got from Jean-Paul, but he that was a really scruffy place and he only would have the correct spark plugs by Monday. I cancelled the order, and he was telling me he has tonight anxiety class and what that costs and the transport ... Have I missed here something?!?! What has that to do with my spark plugs?!? In the end he was fine about the situation, as i I want to crack on to Greece now to resolve there the problem!
Once I arrived at the hotel, I was happy I made it! I had a lovely, spacious top floor room, with a bit of sea view. And what a coast line and views! And cristal blue water! What a place to chill ... well, actually catching up on the blog and all the other loose ends that I didn´t kept up. And most important, finding a garage in Greece, which in terms of social media nowadays should be doable. But for today, it is having a beer, listening to the waves and just chill! So stay tuned for the next blog, where we hopefully found a garage in Greece AND made it until there.
Places | Cities:
ALBANIA:
Përmet,
GREECE:
Konitsa
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 3635 km
Information Border Crossings (in April 2023):
German BI, green card vehicle for Albania, bike documents - easy.
Maintenance | Breakdown:
Fuel injection related problems.
Health issues:
./.
Special thanks to:
Eduardo being such a passionated mechanic, with lots of knowledge (google map: https://goo.gl/maps/7nLHhGH4BkP7XwcG6 )
Joan from Nako Guesthouse to take care of me and my bike problems. (google map: https://goo.gl/maps/GvmdUoU3sU6g4RWeA )