1st Day on Moroccan Soil
Again Arriving in the Dark
13th November | 2022
Last night at dinner, we decided to have a short guided tour through Chefchaouen with our Marroquin guide Hassan. At about 9am we had to leave as we had to drive today 450km, which should be all day as you can calculate an average speed of 70km/h in Morocco! And the last thing you want to do here on these roads is arriving in the dark!
It was getting pretty cold in the valley after Chefchaouen, down to 12C - brrrr! Nice roads though. About late lunchtime, we arrived at the only Romanian ruins in Morocco: Volubilis, close to the town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun. As non of us wanted to spend about €7 pp entrance fee, we shortly drove off to Moulay Idriss to find some lunch.
That was not easy again. After we finally found secured parking within the Medina, some of us didn’t want to have lunch. However, the part that wanted to have a snack went with Hassan through Medina to a market square with various restaurants. Not easy at all.... Hassan was trying to get a good deal, but all seemed to take too long. Finally, we opted for some sort of grilled minced meat sausages in bread rolls, but even that took forever as we were last in the ordering queue (in whatever order, the local police got serviced before us ;-) ). I must admit these sausages were delicious, but eating in a rush, was not really a solution.
The road from Moulay Idriss towards Fes was a lovely mountain road, with some stunning views. Unfortunately, it was not in the best condition for some of the motorcycles. And on top, we suddenly had a stretch of 3km offroad, which we didn’t know when we approached it. When we found out that it was only a short distance, Nuno and Teresa, the couple of the Harley, had already driven off on a road. I thought, they would wait for us in the village, but they went directly to Fes, which brought up another confusion until we all got reunited at a petrol station.
At this petrol station, the owner offered to take us to secure parking close to the Tannery. If you have never been to Morocco, the tannery area of Fes is a must. It all came up as the group had to decide to carry on to our final destination as still another 200km to go, or to visit the Medina for a short time. So the owner helped us with the decision; even better, he said we could pay him whatever we feel is correct. Wow, what a noble man!
He whizzed with his scooter through the Avenidas around Fes, through the traffic that we really had to keep up with him as a group. He showed a secure parking for our bikes and after we paid him some Dirham, off he went as a happy man! We could store our jackets and helmets in one of our accompanying cars. Marco (driver of luggage and trailer) had left us already after lunch, as he had to be soon at the hotel as the offroad group approached him with the estimated arrival time.
It was really interesting to visit the tannery (for free) and get a short introduction. Finally, I have seen this famous place, but it will remain on my bucket list for a visit with much more time.
After Fes, we had to press on to our accommodation for the night. To get forward a bit faster, we went a good stretch of about 100km on the motorway. By the time we were on the motorway, it was already dark, so it was difficult for me to "control" if we are still complete. At the toll station of Guercif, it was already pitch dark but we were still all together. When the van passed the toll I started to move on as they were my point of reference for that moment. I thought all were leaving the meeting point.
When we came closer to our camping site at Mahirija, a Harley and another bike overtook us at top speed. I automatically thought they were from our group but didn´t know why they suddenly overtook us. At the entrance to the Campsite, we thought they must have driven the 1km already to it. When we arrived I ended up directly at the service car of Marco as I needed to change one of my light bulbs that had gone this morning.
The next thing I hear is the Harley arriving and not long after that a discussion between some of the group. I opted to stay out of it as I am the "extangeira". What had happened was that the motorcycle of Paula didn’t start after the toll booth, but only the couple of the Harley had noticed. They tried still to give light signals, but obviously, the last one of the group hasn’t seen them or didn’t know how to react. As already mentioned, in the dark I can only "control" a certain part of the group behind me.
Lesson learned: I spoke to Pedro and Eugenio from that van if they could really stay at the back to be the sweeper vehicle. Like that, I have always a reference on the horizon. They agreed and they also will stay in touch with Marco (and Hassan), who usually drives ahead of the group. Like that we shouldn’t lose anybody anymore.
After I got my bike sorted, it was time to find out from Didier where I will sleep tonight. Next problem, no single room for me reserved! WTF! After a long stressful and chaotic day no single room for me. I could sleep either with Marco or two other blokes in a 3-bed room. You are kidding me!!! No way Didier! In the end, he arranged for me to stay in the main house of the owner's family. They placed me a bed in their huge living room and I shared their bathroom with the family. So no shower tonight then!
After dinner, we discussed the following day, as another long day ahead. In the end, it is 7h30 breakfast and latest by 8h30 on the bikes to get at daylight to Merzouga. In Merzouga, we will stay two nights in a Bivouac in the desert, so that means we have to do the last 6km offroad. That linked to the next problem, the Harley in the sand and the two pillions. As various things were suggested to do on arrival at the point we have to get offroad, nothing was really agreed upon finally. You will find out about this, and other little stress factors in the life of a guide in the next blog.
Let me tell you, life as a guide on this tour is not easy ;-) It is an experience and a lesson to learn. Every day is a school day! However, sit back, have a delicious Marroquin Chai (tea) and next week will be the next blog here available.
Places | Cities:
Chefchaouen, Moulaz Idriss, Fes, Guercif, Mahirija.
Driven km | Trip:
Total | Steffi: 450 km
Maintenance | Breakdown:
Light Bulb
Health issues:
Lack of Sleep
Special thanks to:
The owner of a petrol station in Fes to take us to the tannery.
Marco for taking care of us during the time on the road.